The Balkans
- Apr 4, 2017
- 2 min read
In 2015, I spent 7 days doing a power-lap from Budapest, through Sarajevo, into Kotor Bay, up the coast of Croatia, into Vienna, and back to Hungary. Ten countries in less than as many days. Little sleep, but lots seen. The schedule has become a bit tight, so I chose to blow through the Balkans to Greece. It’s still a bit rainy and chilly this time of year, but they say it’s nice down south. So…a quick recap.
Day 35 – Trieste to Split, Croatia – 6.25 hours, 280 miles. Hugged the coast all the way south, stopping in Zadar to enjoy the Sea Organ. Quite a mesmerizing work of architectural genius…and I appreciate the boat captains who cranked the throttle to bring the show to life.
Day 36 – Split – Took a day to relax, visit the Croatian Olympic weightlifting facilities, and tour the city. Multiple sites ranking the top 10 beaches in Croatia pointed med to a little spot just a few blocks from my BnB. Didn't find many lovely beaches...but the old men in Speedos playing handball in the water were quite entertaining. The knee-deep water was perfect for dramatic dives and splashing around, and each dropped ball led to a barrage of cursing and shaming.
Stopping for a full day is nice for the body, but not always healthy for the mind. Walking around towns, popping into churches, and eating meals all alone is getting pretty old.
Day 37 – Split to Shkodër, Albania – 6.5 hours, 270 miles. On the “power-lap” years ago, I’d unfortunately cut out Mostar from the journey…so I had to swing through that lovely town in Bosnia and Herzegovina and visit the iconic “Star Bridge.” Was it worth it? Yep.
Blasting through B&H and Montenegro, rolled into Shkodër after dark…again. In planning the route, I had hoped for a few days in the “Accursed Mountains” of Albania, but a solid inbound rain and snow storm made it not quite worth sticking around.
Day 38 - Shkodër, Albania to Ohrid, Macedonia via Prizren, Kosovo – 6.5 hours, 280 miles. Absolutely gorgeous ride through the mountains of the Balkans. Rain and snow hot on my tail, I added countries #45-47 to the “moto list.” Not many tourists out here yet, but give it a few years. These hidden gems will soon emerge.
Can't say enough good things about the great potential in Kosovo. Beautiful landscape and great people.
Day 39 – Ohrid to Athens, Greece – 8.5 hours , 400 miles. Long day of highway. Freezing cold. Lot of talking to myself in the helmet. I welcome toll booths. $1.40 is a small price to pay for human interaction.
Looking back, I realize how much I bypassed in these few days, averaging over 300 miles each day I climbed on Green. But, staying in motion and getting closer to a long break in Greece seems to be the best thing for my sanity.
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