Lisbon: Finding a Rhythm
Three days in Lisbon. Having spent months on motorcycles in more than 40 countries, that's the longest I've stayed in one place. With such freedom and enjoyment of mobility, there's always more to see...more to experience. But, this trip will be different. When planning the route, a handful of friends asked for dates when I'd be here or there so we could lock in opportunities to link up. I was reluctant, wanting to not have a schedule, deadlines, or expectations. If the mountain trails and camping in Albania are amazing, I'll just stay there a few more days. If great locals in Lithuania come around, then I could rest there longer. But this breaks the norm from past adventures. And after planning the route and applying a typical daily mileage for mid-February to June 1 (crossing into Russia), I still had a full month of flex in the itinerary. This trip would require that I tap the breaks, breathe, and enjoy. Lisbon would be the first test.
Day trips were had. Sintra is amazing. Two castles, perched atop neighboring hills. King Ferdinand II's Palácio da Pena, commissioned in 1842, exhibits a range of styles and colors. Less than 500m away, Castelo dos Mouros (The Moorish Castle), a fortified observatory from the 9th century, shows much more wear. The micro climate at that elevation produced thick fog all day, but still, it was a stunning site. There is a handful of other palaces and castles in Sintra... definitely worth a trip out of the city.
Cascais and Santuário de Cristo Rei provided great opportunities to test the Mavic drone's capabilities and camera settings. Despite being legal (or so I read on the net), I was still reluctant to take full ownership of the flying camera, so I'd hide between buildings after launch. Wearing full gear, standing at the bike with cases at the ready, I was prepared for a quick getaway should the authorities chase "Maverick" back to its point of origin. Yeah...not necessary. Nobody seemed to care. And the buildings significantly reduced control capabilities. Twice I was convinced it may not come back. But, as advertised, with the push of a button, the loyal little quadcopter hustled back home...panting a bit and ready to be put up for a nap. Attaboy. Lighting is critical for good video and some settings need adjustment, but we'll figure that out for videos to come.
Cuisine?...yes, it's Lisbon. The first night, I ventured into a mom-and-pop place, Restaurante Rui do Barrote, in a dark, narrow alley just blocks from my AirBnB. The venue was fairly empty at 9pm, when I finally dragged in after the day of flights and riding. The house specialty and a common dish, picanha, hit the spot. The waiter literally shuttered uncontrollably when I declined wine with dinner (see later paragraph about fitness), as others across the restaurant enjoyed a bottle of wine per customer (that was impressive). Appreciating the service and proximity, I returned the following evening at 7pm...on Valentines Day...there was a line out the door. Apparently Valentines Day is a big deal to some people. I settled for a half chicken and some trail mix from the grocery store. The third night I splurged on a pot of seafood and rice, a local classic, in Cascais. Fantastic. Hardly splurging...and why? I'd finally acquired a debit card. Cold, hard cash at your fingertips is something we all take for granted too often. USAA redeemed itself by express mailing a card to the Sheraton in Lisbon. No, I wasn't staying there, but status does have its perks. With properly-planned lead time, every Starwood property can now be a personal mailbox.
All things considered, the three days in one place (though historically maddening) was...
refreshing. I found a rhythm. Wake, meditate via the Headspace app, read some scripture, learn a new language, and workout. The language learning would be critical for future endeavors, so I invest the most time there. Unlike other trips, fitness couldn't slip away this time, so I found a good globo-gym that tolerated CrossFit workouts and the slinging of chalk. Have been kicked out of multiple gyms in The States for such behavior. God bless the Portuguese fitness community. One big issue though... sleep is rare. Too much anticipation for the journey ahead. First it was light jet-lag...but after three days of averaging 4 hours of sleep, it took a toll. Late night calls back home and excitement for the next day destroyed any chance of a full night's rest. Even with no commitments, sleep doesn't come. Hoping it irons itself out.
More on a rhythm: despite packing and re-packing multiple times at home in Missouri, it took a few days to really nail things down. Previous efforts were about "what to bring" and not "how to bring it"...just wanted to make sure it would all fit on Green. Everything on the motorcycle has a purpose and a place. Like the olden days of packing an Abrams tank for weeks of missions, you have to think long and hard about what's really necessary. I think of Mean Green as the tank ---- he kinda looks like one. In fact, a large, heavy machine gun would look quit fitting, mounted on top. Anyway, over the course of three days, everything received an appropriate place, based upon frequency of use and monetary value:
Pannier 1 (aluminum case) - All camping gear and first aid kit. Rarely to be opened, except in the wild outdoors or an emergency.
Pannier 2 - Day pack, heavy security chain, and miscellaneous items. Can stay on the bike at night after locking up the bike and pulling the day pack out, containing hygiene kit and electronics chargers.
Pannier 3 - Miscellaneous...lunchbox, easy-access clothing layers,etc.
Waterproof bag (and lovely backrest) - Clothing. Unsecured. Feel free to steal that. Would love to see a thief's face when opening a massive, air-tight stuff-sack of stinky, out-of-fashion garments. Enjoy.
Tank bag - Critical items for use while riding. Chargers, spare goggles, receipts, knives, etc.
Everything has its place now. Feels secure. Feels familiar. Feels good.
That's about it. Next would be The Algarve and Seville. Things are working out.
If you were looking for some deep, interesting reflection on the Portuguese culture or landscape...sorry. Watch Rick Steves. As for now, this is about motorcycling.
